Category Archives: What’s new & Jewelry storytelling

What’s new in my collection. Storytelling about jewelry and jewelry history.

Piece de la Resistance

Resistance jewelry: 18K gold French Liberation ring in bleu, blanc, rouge

Resistance Jewelry in Bleu, Blanc, Rouge

Without realizing it I bought a typical post war Liberation piece. This ring in 18K gold represents 3 torches with the Allied Forces flag in Blue (sapphire) – Blanc (diamond) and Rouge (ruby). The torches are set “en tremblant´, which means they can wiggle and the stones can turn around in their cone.
During World War II orders diminish and the creativity of the Jewelry Houses turn into jewelry pieces of resistance and patriotism. VCA and Cartier put their workshops under the flags of the Allied Forces and choose the 3 colours bleu-blanc-rouge to use in their jewelry designs. The results were rare pieces of patriotism under Nazi occupation.
The Liberation of France in 1944 inspired and during that year and the following year we see torches and flames in bleu-blanc-rouge, clips of nurses and soldiers and the Croix de Lorraine.

See also the French documentary “Les tresors de la joaillerie francaise”, (no sub titles)

Bewaren

Historical Space Age jewelry (knuckledusters part 2)

historical space age jewelry: Sputnik ring in gold, diamonds, emeralds and rubies

historical space age jewelry. Ring inspired on the launch of the Sputnik in 1954

It was not for the first time that space and phenomena of the sky inspired artists, think of the Comet of Halley embroidered on the Tapestry of Bayeux (11th century), but the launch of the Sputnik triggered the Space Race between the US and the former USSR in the 1950s and it inspired lots of jewelry artists. This ring is not only a charismatic example of the launch of the Sputnik, it fits also the fashion of wearing knuckledusters of that time. The dome is shaped by a tutti frutti of diamonds, rubies and emeralds and the “ship” is made of gold wires. Next year it will be the 60th anniversary of the launch of the Sputnik, excellent way of remembering such an important event with a beautiful piece of art.

Bewaren

Coctail style Knuckleduster

Cocktail style knuckleduster: 18K gold and diamonds

Cocktail style knuckleduster in geometric patterns set with diamonds

Jewelry has produced some pretty funny names. I heard about “doorknockers”, then I read about “knuckledusters” that were popular in the 1940s. Not your average hip hop ring with dollar signs, but heavy duty diamonds in geometric shapes. This is what UK jewelry writer Vivienne Becker wrote about it:
“Slowly the 1930s look took on the 1940’s characteristics. You can see the transition clearly in the rings, which were particularly popular and plentiful at this time: square-edged knuckledusters for clenching round a glass of champagne, with layered edges like steps and square-cut stones stretched into a line over the corners and down the sides.“ I’m sure they must have looked like this one.
Quote from Vivienne Becker Fabulous Fakes (p 151).

Bewaren

Popular Birds of the 1950s

18K gold French humming bird brooch from 1950s

French humming bird brooch from the 1950s in 18K gold and enamel

Under the influence of Hollywood and Walt Disney Cartoons, all sorts of whimsical animals and especially birds like highly stylized parrots and birds of paradise came into fashion in the 1950s. Bright enamels and rich gem colour combinations were particular popular. This enamel hummingbird from France is a beautiful example. Some popular bird names of those times were Lauren Bacall, Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich and Lana Turner. But what do you think of my French humming bird? 18K gold and beautiful rich enamel.

Bewaren

Maison de Bucherer

A Bucherer 18K gold, ruby and diamond bracelet with a hidden watch

In 1888 Carl-Friedrich Bucherer, businessman and industrialist opened his first watch and jewelry store in Lucerne, Switzerland. In 2013 the family owned business celebrated their 125 jubilee. Today, third generation Jörg G. Bucherer leads the Bucherer Group and employs some 1500 people worldwide. The name Bucherer is well known beyond the borders of Switzerland and stands for quality at the very highest level. Their creations are designed and handcrafted in their own workshops and enjoy worldwide renown.

The Bucherer Group are not only manufacturers, but also retailers and wholesalers. In their boutiques they stock world class brand names such as: Rolex, Chopard, Piaget, IWC, Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Beaume & Mercier, Longines, Rado and Gucci. The company stayed loyal to their founder and nurtured their own watch making tradition under the name Carl F. Bucherer brand name since 1919.

In 2001 the brand was repositioned and since joined a select group of Swiss watch making manufacturers who design, develop and produce movements in their own workshops.
Source: company website of Bucherer.com.